Hidden Provence, France – Part I

Provence, France
A Provence that tourists seldom see can be found just around a
corner, or  just a little further down a country road. When I
visited the region I followed a route in an area named the Camargue  and took in some little known places and  a few well known attractions.

The Camargue is a vast triangular plain (the delta of the Rhone) and it stretches from Arles to the Mediterranean. Partly desert, it also has vast marshland and salt marshes. And it’s greatest appeal is as a natural reserve, where the famous white horses of the Camargue run wild.  There are also wild bulls and pigs.

I stayed in out of the way places, such as the Plain of Crau, a part of the Camargue that inspired several beautiful drawings and paintings from Vincent van Gogh when he lived in Arles. My travel agent made a reservation at an 18th century country manor house in a unique location, as it’s only half-an-hour’s drive south of Arles yet it remains isolated, virtually a retreat. The 700 acre property is an oasis in the Camargue desert, where the thistle thrives.

In the midst of what could be the American Southwest, the dwelling is irrigated with water from the Rhone River that nourishes its fertile fields, vineyards and avenues of plane trees. Camargue hay is known historically as the most nutritious and it’s no wonder the fields around here are a haven to hundreds of wild brown rabbits. When I took walks, rabbits were everywhere–the startled creatures performed hilarious antics in their confusion. Ears up and tails bobbing, they charged off the path and through the meadows looking for cover in the hedges and behind shrubs.

Several raced out from behind trees, only to turn tail and scurry back
when they spotted me. They skittered down the road in front of me. Once, I
nearly stepped on one as it dithered in a zig-zag. I was half afraid that
with all this available game, the owner might surprise me one evening with a savory rabbit stew for dinner. Thank heavens she never did!

….more to come…about  the freedom that comes with driving yourself and about my Renault Clio rental. Renault