9/22/13
I can’t see how I could possibly have enjoyed a trip in the countryside
without my Renault rental, since it gave me the flexibility to explore near and far
and not far off was Avignon. Known as “the city of the Popes,” for its magnificent Palace of the Popes that once housed Catholic popes. Nearby is the Petit Palais Museum of Medieval Painting and Sculpture. The city has gorgeous shady avenues and lively squares with outdoor cafes.
Other nearby sights I explored were Fontaine-de-Vaucluse (where
the Sorgues River rushes from a fountain in the rocks below a cliff) and the village of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue surrounded by river water that reflects an
astonishing bright green from underwater plants.
Gordes is an extremely popular medieval hilltown that really is worth
visiting but on the day I drove there the town was so crowded that I couldn’t find parking. With so much else to see in Provence, I reluctantly departed. (I’ve recently had a chance to revisit it and it deserves its fame.)
Nearby, I briefly visited Borie Village, actually a village of beehive shaped huts built of stacked stones. Despite its primitive dwellings, it was inhabited up until the 19th century and now it’s a museum.
I spent a few days further north in Marsanne near Montelimar (famous for nougat candy). The wheat fields glowed a brilliant honey gold. By mistake I drove too close to the side of the road and my Renault slid into an irrigation ditch—these ditches line the roads in agricultural areas. Luckily a farmer pulled the auto out with his tractor and my car was without a scratch. This was very important to me since cars rented from Renault Eurodrive are always brand new.
Endless discoveries awaited me off the beaten track in hidden Provence—a region of variety and beauty.
Getting There: Air France flies from several US cities to Paris, call toll free
1 (800) 237-2747.
Renault Eurodrive offers an economical tax-free lease (rental) plan
that includes unlimited mileage, insurance and the use of a brand new auto. They offer a vacation plan for people planning a vacation of
several weeks. 1888-532-1221.
For general information about France: http://www.franceguide.com
Copyright 1996/2013, Patricia Woeber. All Rights Reserved. This file may be
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without authorization from Patricia.
9/5/13
In those days Le Barroux, a village in the Vaucluse
Countryside, had Les Geraniums Hotel, a charming
Logis de France hotel (Logis de France are an association
of hotels that are rated zero to four stars).
In those days, the hotel offered home style cooking.
I never thought that eating leek pie in the Vaucluse
would be one of the highlights of my stay in Provence, but
it was. But of course there many more highlights to come.
Each morning, Monsieur the owner went to his
garden to pick basil, mint, thyme and rosemary—with
garlic—the essence of Provencal cooking.
Each evening he concocted another specialty. I remember baked
chicken in a basil sauce, with a glass of Cotes-du-Ventouse, a local
red wine, and I recall other delicious saucy chicken and lamb dishes.
These five course meals were a bargain and included in the price of
the room with half-board. Meals were served in the dining room or on
a quiet terraces—a perfect spot for relaxing.
At twilight, swallows dipped and swooped over the hotel eaves
adding to the magical atmosphere.
Le Barroux is a tiny old village, with a church and a castle,
and it lies in a land of gardens with pale purple lavender, and vineyards
curving over hillsides. Here, and throughout this region,
the indescribable quality of Provence’s famous light is sheer glory.
4/18/13
More on Hidden Provence #4
Undoubtedly, one of Provence’s greatest attractions is the Pont du Gard built by the Romans sometime around the birth of Christ, 2,000 years ago. The perfectly proportioned three tiers of arches support this amazing aqueduct, which spans the Gard River. In those ancient days it brought fresh water from Uzes to Nimes—about 14 miles.
The Duchy of Uzes is another place very well worth visiting. The Ducal Palace is open for tours. A climb to the top of a palace tower, too steep and narrow for my comfort, gave a great view of the medieval town clustered below, including the quaint main square. (I am not sure if they still allow visitors to do this.) I was impressed by the duke’s history—the Uzes family lineage, descends—or should I say ascends—from Charlemagne who ruled in the 7th century.
After a few days of exploring this area, I drove my trusty
Renault north to Le Barroux, a village in the Vaucluse countryside
to stay for four days. After walking around in the hot Provencal sun,
it was nice to get “home” to Les Geraniums Hotel in Le Barroux. (I check it in
TripAdvisor.com to find out if the hotel has maintained its charm. It has three stars)
….. more next week
3/2013
Aigues-Mortes, a medieval fortified city created by Louis IX (Saint Louis) as his Mediterranean port, represents the rich history of the area. From here, Louis’ ships sailed for the Crusades.
Nowadays, a canal reaches the sea at Le Grau-du-Roi (“the ditch of the king”), a bustling resort. In spring, the Fete of the Sea is a popular event held to bless local sailors and fishermen. On the same day, the Abrivado, the Camargue cowboy festival, celebrates bringing in the wild bulls.
Not far from Vergieres are Roman towns and ruins that make visiting Provence so rewarding. I drove in my trusty Renault Clio www.renaultusa.com to Arles, which is rich in treasures of art and architecture. (Be sure to visit St. Trophime Cathedral). Nimes’ amphitheater is one of 60 still in existence that the Romans built when Gaul was part of their Empire. And Emperor Augustus built the elegant Maison Carree temple as a memorial for his two grandsons. Augustus was the man who defeated Mark Anthony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium in Egypt.
Nimes has another claim to fame: the creation of American Levis jeans. While visiting Nimes, a centuries old textile center, Levi Strauss thought of making trousers from the strong cloth, “serge de Nimes,”—for the 1850’s California gold diggers. The cloth was actually imported from Genoa, so the word “jeans” came from “Genes,” the French pronunciation of Genoa. “Denim” came from “de Nimes.”
1/17/2013
Rabbits are found in abundance in the Camargue of Provence. Birds, on migration from Europe to Africa, know the area well. And as it’s a migratory route, sparrows, swallows, robins, woodpeckers and migratory birds stop to rest here. One of the pleasures was awakening to birdsong. Half symphony; it sounded like a wild singing competition.
“Even the falcon sings in the mornings,” said the property owner.
To anyone interested in unusual places with excellent accommodation, I recommend staying in B&Bs particularly if you travel alone, as I usually do. It’s one of the nicest ways of meeting locals. (Reserve through the Gites de France association). Of course, a rental car is a must for the freedom of exploring all over and I always lease a Renault’s www.renaultusa.com/
The Camargue remains largely unexplored by Americans. This vast triangular plain (the delta of the Rhone) stretches from Arles to the Mediterranean. Partly desert, it also has vast marshland and salt marshes. And it’s greatest appeal is as a natural reserve, where the famous white horses of the Camargue run wild. There are also wild bulls and pigs. I watched pink flamingoes walking in a straight line, one right behind the other, daintily picking up their feet in the shallow waters near Aigues-Mortes, a medieval fortified city.
Provence, France
A Provence that tourists seldom see can be found just around a
corner, or just a little further down a country road. When I
visited the region I followed a route in an area named the Camargue and took in some little known places and a few well known attractions.
The Camargue is a vast triangular plain (the delta of the Rhone) and it stretches from Arles to the Mediterranean. Partly desert, it also has vast marshland and salt marshes. And it’s greatest appeal is as a natural reserve, where the famous white horses of the Camargue run wild. There are also wild bulls and pigs.
I stayed in out of the way places, such as the Plain of Crau, a part of the Camargue that inspired several beautiful drawings and paintings from Vincent van Gogh when he lived in Arles. My travel agent made a reservation at an 18th century country manor house in a unique location, as it’s only half-an-hour’s drive south of Arles yet it remains isolated, virtually a retreat. The 700 acre property is an oasis in the Camargue desert, where the thistle thrives.
In the midst of what could be the American Southwest, the dwelling is irrigated with water from the Rhone River that nourishes its fertile fields, vineyards and avenues of plane trees. Camargue hay is known historically as the most nutritious and it’s no wonder the fields around here are a haven to hundreds of wild brown rabbits. When I took walks, rabbits were everywhere–the startled creatures performed hilarious antics in their confusion. Ears up and tails bobbing, they charged off the path and through the meadows looking for cover in the hedges and behind shrubs.
Several raced out from behind trees, only to turn tail and scurry back
when they spotted me. They skittered down the road in front of me. Once, I
nearly stepped on one as it dithered in a zig-zag. I was half afraid that
with all this available game, the owner might surprise me one evening with a savory rabbit stew for dinner. Thank heavens she never did!
….more to come…about the freedom that comes with driving yourself and about my Renault Clio rental. Renault
France with Patricia Woeber 